With a robust flavor profile and a bright zing of lemon zest, this Sicilian dish is both a visual delight and a scrumptious treat.
I’m here with Sicilian chef Corrado Assenza, who has an intriguing background. After studying agronomy at the University of Bologna, he returned to his hometown of Noto to take over his aunt’s patisserie and the family farm. This blend of formal education and traditional knowledge has led to some extraordinary results in his culinary creations. Many of us have experienced the delights of his Caffè Sicilia, where we’ve savored almond granita, almond and sesame biscuits paired with bitter marmalade, bergamot cream, and even ricotta-filled cannoli crowned with candied orange.
I had the privilege of observing Corrado in action during a cooking demonstration focused on citrus and honey at the Anna Tasca Lanza cooking school. He treated us to an infusion of cream with bitter orange and mandarin for almond cake, a pasta dish showcasing anchovy and lemon, and artichokes braised with wild herbs. However, what stands out most in my memory is his technique for rolling a frittata into a captivating shape known as “u pisci d’ovu,” or “fish made of egg.”
This dish is a fascinating example of culinary camouflage, where the presentation tricks the eye into believing it’s something it’s not. It’s a resourceful approach often born from necessity, akin to the wartime recipes that emerged from scarcity. Yet, it can also serve as a playful reminder of abundance or the absence of an ingredient. For instance, in dishes like spaghetti con le sarde al mare, the fish’s essence is cleverly substituted with preserved anchovy, while in “escaped chicken” penne, the missing meat is compensated for by a rich red wine and vegetable ragu.
In the case of u pisci d’ovu, the goal is to create a visual illusion that distracts from the absence of actual fish. Corrado accomplishes this by crafting an elongated omelet, though my attempt didn’t quite capture the fishy likeness. Nonetheless, I assure you that the dish is incredibly satisfying—its texture enhanced by the breadcrumbs, its flavor enriched by sage (which I added in place of Corrado’s original parsley), and brightened with lemon zest.
A friend of mine jokingly suggested that using sage leaves could mimic the scales of a salmon, much like a slice of cucumber does. While it seemed a bit excessive at the time, I now wonder if adding capers as eyes might have been a fun touch. Next time, perhaps!
Now, let’s take a closer look at the recipe for Bread, Sage, and Lemon Frittata, or u pisci d’ovu, which serves four:
**Ingredients:**
– 8 eggs
– 2 handfuls of soft breadcrumbs soaked in 50ml milk
– 40g grated parmesan
– Grated zest of 1 lemon
– Salt and black pepper to taste
– 10-12 sage leaves
– 2 tbsp olive oil
– A knob of butter
**Instructions:**
1. In a bowl, whisk together the eggs, milk-soaked breadcrumbs, parmesan, lemon zest, a pinch of salt, and plenty of black pepper. Thinly slice the sage leaves and mix them into the egg mixture.
2. Heat oil and butter in a non-stick or well-seasoned pan until the butter starts to foam. Pour in the egg mixture and stir for a moment.
3. As the eggs begin to set, give the pan a slight shake to loosen the frittata.
4. When it’s nearly set but still slightly wet on top, you have two options. For a classic frittata, invert it onto a plate, add a little more oil and butter to the pan, and return the frittata with the less-cooked side down to brown it. Alternatively, for u pisci d’ovu, gently lift one edge and flip it over, then roll the set eggs into a log shape resembling a fish. Slide it onto a plate and serve in slices.
So there you have it—a delightful recipe that not only satisfies the palate but also engages the imagination!
