On a December morning, I found myself awake in the upper bunk of our family suite on the Amtrak Southwest Chief, stirred by the constant rumble of the train. Climbing down the ladder, I noticed my husband and our 5-year-old daughter still snug in the lower bunk.
I settled onto a gray bench by the window and drew back the blue curtains. As we rolled through the vast desert, the stunning sight of peach-hued clouds captivated me. We were passing through Holbrook, Arizona, and the dazzling sunrise looked like a watercolored masterpiece. In that moment, it felt as though I had stepped right into a Wes Anderson film, where trains often take center stage.
Traveling by train through the expansive Southwest to New Mexico in winter evokes a childlike sense of wonder that flying simply can’t replicate. We opted for the 16-hour overnight journey instead of a quick two-hour flight to Albuquerque, seeking a unique travel experience that would allow us to slow down from our hectic lifestyle.
While we spent part of the journey napping, we soaked in the beautiful landscapes, especially from the panoramic windows of the Sightseer Lounge. After enjoying a three-course steak meal, we arrived in Albuquerque by 11 AM.
One thing to note is that costs for train travel to Chicago can sometimes exceed airfare.
If you’ve never considered an 800-mile train journey before, there are various factors to weigh that differ from flying or driving. Depending on your accommodation choice, taking the Amtrak Southwest Chief to Chicago could be pricier than flying. Nevertheless, whether traveling with kids, solo, or with friends or a partner, there are plenty of ways to keep it budget-friendly.
Continue reading for tips on the Amtrak experience, what to do and eat in New Mexico, and where to stay. With a bit of luck, you might even get to experience a dreamlike snowy landscape in the Land of Enchantment.
**Book Early for the Best Options**
For the best experience, especially in family compartments that accommodate two adults and two children, it’s wise to book your tickets from Los Angeles Union Station to Albuquerque as soon as possible, as these ideal rooms go quickly. While coach seats are economical, having a private room to sleep in can significantly enhance your journey.
Roomettes and bedrooms are both designed for two adults (though the former might feel cramped), while a bedroom suite consists of two adjacent rooms. Some of the compartments come with private bathrooms and showers, while others share facilities—be sure to choose what fits your needs.
An added perk of having a private compartment is the first-class service it receives. You’ll have dedicated staff to assist with turn-down service and luggage handling, and meals in the dining car are complimentary.
**Union Station: A Relaxed Alternative to LAX**
If you’re anxious about the hustle and bustle of Los Angeles International Airport (LAX) during the holidays, Union Station serves as a more laid-back alternative. The east parking garage almost always has overnight spots available at just $8 per day. If you plan to park for three nights or more, download a parking application from the Union Station website, fill it out, and submit it to the parking office in the east section.
If you have luggage to check, are traveling with family, or require assistance at the station, plan to arrive at least an hour before your train departs. Otherwise, 30 minutes should suffice. If you have a first-class ticket, don’t miss the chance to relax in the Amtrak Station Lounge while enjoying complimentary snacks and beverages.
**Don’t Forget Your Overnight Bag**
When checking luggage, be sure to pack a small overnight bag suitable for the overhead compartments near your room or coach seat. Some smaller compartments might not allow carry-on luggage, necessitating that you store it outside your room, so a handy overnight bag will keep your essentials easily accessible.
Bring a small multi-plug splitter for charging multiple devices, as compartments usually have just one outlet. Earplugs can help muffle the sounds of the train at night, and it’s wise to carry small bills for tipping the first-class attendants and staff.
Amtrak trains arrive at the Rail Runner station in downtown Albuquerque. From there, you can arrange a Turo rental car to be delivered to your location, or head to the Enterprise rental car location about a mile away (make sure to call ahead for complimentary pick-up). You can also catch an Uber or a free city bus to the rental car center at Albuquerque International Airport for more options.
For a trip to Santa Fe, you can either drive an hour or buy tickets for the New Mexico Rail Runner Express, which takes about 1.5 hours and drops you off just half a mile from downtown Santa Fe.
**Accommodation and Dining in Albuquerque**
Accommodating travelers conveniently near the train station, the historic Hotel Andaluz is just a five-minute walk away, making it an ideal launching pad for exploration. This Moorish-style hotel offers spacious comfort, with a lobby featuring stunning casbah-inspired alcoves and a cozy library complete with a fireplace, not to mention the delicious Spanish tapas at the Más wine bar.
Dine on New Mexican breakfast staples at Central Grill and Coffee House, where vibrant dishes like burritos and chilaquiles are topped with red or green chile sauces. If you’re in the mood for something more diverse, lively spots like Sawmill Market or 505 Central Food Hall offer everything from Detroit-style pizza to ramen and tacos.
**Activities in Albuquerque**
Old Town Albuquerque, with its Pueblo-Spanish-style architecture, galleries, shops, and restaurants, is a year-round destination, especially dazzling during the holidays when farolitos light up the town square at night—these traditional Southwest lanterns add a festive glow.
On Christmas Eve, you can purchase a ticket for a 45-minute Luminaria Tour bus ride that will take you through beautifully decorated streets. From November 30 to December 30, ABQ BioPark Botanical Garden hosts its annual River of Lights event, featuring over 700 illuminated displays along a 1.5-mile trail.
For winter sports enthusiasts, Sandia Peak Ski Area is a 35-mile drive northeast of Albuquerque. Kids will surely enjoy the expansive Explora interactive museum.
**Santa Fe’s Arts and Traditions**
In Santa Fe, the Inn of the Governors transforms its lobby into a festive escape filled with Christmas decorations and a crackling fireplace. Guests enjoy complimentary sherry and New Mexico’s official cookie, biscochitos, during a welcoming happy hour. The Del Charro restaurant offers free full breakfast to hotel guests, with most days extending service until midnight.
Cafe Pasqual’s is a local favorite, celebrated for its use of organic ingredients and lively decor, complete with a communal dining table encouraging solo travelers to mingle. The Shed, a 71-year-old landmark, is also a beloved spot boasting delicious margaritas, posole, and red chile enchiladas.
During Christmas Eve, the Canyon Road Farolito Walk draws thousands of visitors who stroll through this artistically rich avenue to admire the holiday lights. The Santa Fe Botanical Garden hosts La Luz de las Noches from December 19 to 31, featuring farolitos, musical performances, food, and drinks (with a break on December 24 and 25).
For snow activities, drive northeast for 35 miles to Santa Fe Ski Area, where a new high-speed lift will debut this winter. Don’t miss the immersive art experience at Meow Wolf or screenings at the Jean Cocteau Cinema, owned by “Game of Thrones” creator George R.R. Martin.
This enchanting Amtrak journey to New Mexico deserves a spot on your winter bucket list—but be sure to book soon!
