The inaugural Northern California Chinese Winery Tasting event took place in early June at Ektimo Vineyards, featuring attendance from key figures such as former Sonoma Mayor and current City Council member Jack Ding, and Redwood District Chinese Association President Nancy Wang, among others.
Seven Chinese owners and managers from eight local wineries showcased their finest selections, attracting considerable enthusiasm from attendees. Historically, the wine industry has been predominantly white. A survey by SevenFifty Daily three years ago, featuring over 3,100 industry professionals, revealed that 84% of respondents identified as white, with only 2% identifying as Black or African American. While specific numbers for Asian representation remain unclear, it is evident that Asians, particularly Chinese, are underrepresented in the wine industry.
April Xie, the owner of Ektimo Vineyards, noted that roughly 90% of the winery owners she has encountered are white. This reality contrasts starkly with the significant contributions made by Chinese laborers during the development of Sonoma Valley, the birthplace of California’s wine industry. With the assistance of around 200 Chinese workers, Buena Vista Winery was established in 1857, marking California’s first premium winery. Historian John McCormick, a Harvard graduate and Napa Valley resident, emphasizes in his new book, “Chinese in Napa Valley: The Forgotten Community that Built the Wine Country,” that without Chinese laborers, the Napa wine industry would not exist as it does today.
At the tasting event, all seven participating Chinese owners or managers were first-generation immigrants. This group included Xie from Ektimo Vineyards, Ivonne Zhu of Appellations Cellar, Jane Aitong Jiang of Duncan Peak Vineyards, George Zhang of Shunyi Cellars, Cheng Chang of Quixote Winery and Hannah Nicole Vineyards & Winery, Jason Zhan, the Executive Director of Diamond Mountain Vineyard, and Diane Wu, owner of Lanthanide Wines.
The event also featured the presence of Jack Ding and Nancy Wang, highlighting the community’s support for these emerging winery owners.
In discussing her journey, Xie explained that her father, who had a business background, attended classes at Stanford University in 2003 and found himself impressed by the wine industry while touring Napa. Hailing from Ningxia—a rising star in China’s wine industry—she decided to change her career path after visiting over 100 wineries and ultimately purchased Ektimo, a winery established in 1985 that had fallen into disrepair before she acquired it.
Having studied media in Ohio, Xie volunteered to take over the struggling winery at just 22 years old. She faced numerous challenges, culminating in a critical moment in 2012 when a walkout occurred among her staff during the crucial crushing period. The employees demanded a 20% wage increase, knowing she could struggle to find replacements.
Xie recalled negotiating with the striking workers, her hands trembling as she battled her anxiety. Ultimately, she made compromises and agreed to the wage increase while actively recruiting new staff. After the harvest season, she was able to replace the strikers with reliable workers, fostering a stable team.
During her initial procurement efforts, Xie faced skepticism from suppliers who associated her winery with its prior failed reputation. To build trust, she often had to pay upfront for supplies. Over time, as her reputation grew, suppliers began to offer her credit. She balanced her day job with night classes on winemaking, earning the highest level certification (Level 4) from the Wine & Spirit Education Trust (WSET) while also studying winery management at UC Davis.
To combat challenges such as wildfires prompting power outages, Xie began sourcing generators from China. Additionally, she sought cost-effective supplies for bottles, tanks, and labels, leveraging her connections in China to optimize her operations.
As a new entrant in the industry, Xie has not only established her brand but also manages wine production for 26 clients in the U.S. and five clients in China. To diversify and expand revenue, she sells tanks, labels, and other products, becoming the only Chinese winery owner in the area integrated across grape growing, production, and sales. With a production capacity of 40,000 cases, her brand’s recognition is on the rise, earning multiple gold medals in the San Francisco Chronicle wine competitions.
However, U.S. wine only accounts for less than 4% of imported wine in China. To increase visibility, Xie has taken steps to showcase her products at trade shows, such as the China International Alcoholic Beverage Expo in Chengdu. She aims to foster collaboration with the Sonoma County Wineries Association to promote local wines and tourism in China.
