Nigel Slater’s recipes for pumpkin, soy and honey, and fennel gratin with anchovies

As autumn arrives, the beauty of the season unfolds around us. Cobwebs glisten with morning dew in the vegetable gardens, setting a picturesque scene for harvest time. This week, I took to the kitchen to bake my first squash of the season—a hefty butternut that was slightly larger than usual. I brushed its vibrant orange flesh with a delightful blend of sweet honey and dark soy sauce, heightened by a sprinkle of ground Aleppo pepper and garlic.

The result? A sticky, spicy-sweet butternut that presented beautifully on a bed of steamed white rice. No additional sauce was necessary; just a drizzle of roasted sesame oil elevated the dish perfectly. To complete the meal, we savored the last of the plums, which I stewed with sugar and a cinnamon stick for a sweet finish.

As the leaves begin to fall, there’s nothing quite like the comfort of a warm supper straight from the oven. A gratin—filled with vegetables slowly baked in cream, topped with a crunchy layer of breadcrumbs and cheese—fits seamlessly into this cozy setting. This forgiving recipe can linger in the oven until we’re ready to dig in.

We enjoyed the creamy concoction infused with aniseed, perfect for mopping up with bread. However, next time, I might pair it with some bulgur wheat warmed in vegetable stock or a side of steamed freekeh, which adds a lovely smoky flavor that could complement grilled chicken thighs nicely.

Now, let’s explore the recipe for the butternut squash with soy and honey. While it might seem unconventional to add honey to the sweetness of squash, the combination of umami-rich soy and the heat from ground chili creates a delightful harmony. I used Aleppo pepper, but feel free to substitute it with whatever chili you have at hand—smoky paprika could also bring a wonderful warmth. For a vegan alternative, simply replace honey with agave or date syrup.

This recipe serves four and takes about 1.5 hours to prepare. Here’s what you’ll need:

– 800g-1kg butternut squash or pumpkin
– 3 large cloves of garlic
– 50g ginger
– 1-2 tsp Aleppo pepper
– 6 tbsp honey
– 5 tbsp soy sauce
– 1 tbsp groundnut oil
– 2 tsp sesame seeds

To serve: steamed white basmati rice, roasted sesame oil, and orange slices.

Start by halving the butternut squash and scooping out the seeds. There’s no need to peel, though you can if you prefer. If using pumpkin, carefully remove the tough skin and slice the flesh into half-centimeter thick pieces, arranging them on a baking sheet or in a roasting pan.

Preheat your oven to 200°C (gas mark 6). Crush the peeled garlic with a pinch of salt into a paste, then grate the ginger into it. Mix in the Aleppo pepper, honey, soy sauce, and oil to create a sticky dressing.

Pour this mixture over the squash, ensuring that each piece is well-coated—your hands will work best for this. Bake for 25 minutes, then carefully flip the pieces using a palette knife and sprinkle with sesame seeds. Return to the oven for another 15 minutes until tender and glossy.

Once out of the oven, let the dish rest for a moment before giving the butternut slices a second coating with the dressing. Serve them over the steamed rice, accompanied by a few orange slices and a drizzle of roasted sesame oil.

Now, let’s shift our focus to a delicious fennel gratin with anchovies. The key to this dish is to slice the fennel thinly for quicker cooking and better sauce absorption. Baking the fennel softens its sharp aniseed flavor, and adding a splash of Pernod can enhance the taste—though you can certainly skip it if you prefer a lighter profile.

This dish serves four and takes about an hour to prepare:

– 750g fennel
– Olive oil
– 45g fresh white bread
– 2 large shallots
– 2-3 tbsp Pernod (optional)
– 8 anchovy fillets
– 250ml double cream
– 2 tbsp grated parmesan

Begin by preheating your oven to 200°C (gas mark 6). Trim and slice the fennel thinly. Warm around 3 tbsp of olive oil in an ovenproof dish, then add the fennel, covering it to cook gently for about 15 minutes until it starts to soften.

Meanwhile, crumble the bread into fine breadcrumbs, slice the shallots thickly, and add them to the fennel, cooking for a few more minutes. Pour in the Pernod and let it bubble briefly before introducing the anchovies. Season the cream with finely ground black pepper (no salt), then pour it over the vegetables.

Top the dish with breadcrumbs and grated parmesan before baking for approximately 25 minutes, until golden and bubbling. Let it set for a few minutes before serving.

For more of my culinary adventures, feel free to follow me on Instagram @NigelSlater.

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